Tempio Pausania, discovering the city of stone

What to see, what to do, what to eat

In the heart of Gallura, at the foot of Mount Limbara, lies Tempio Pausania, one of the most fascinating locations in northeastern Sardinia. Known as the City of Stone for its distinctive granite buildings, this destination enchants visitors with its historical heritage, pure waters and ancient craft traditions. Tempio Pausania's roots go back to the Neolithic period, as evidenced by flint and obsidian artifacts found in the area. In 1173, the city took the name Templo, derived from the Latin “templum” (slope), becoming the capital of the Curatoria of Gemini, within the Giudicato of Gallura. It was not until 1879, with the addition of “Pausania,” that it assumed its present name, in honor of the ancient diocese of Phausania, of which it is now the bishop's seat and a center of reference for the whole of Gallura. In addition to its history, Tempio Pausania is famous for its purest water springs, known for their alleged benefits on the body. The area is also a point of reference for the working of granite and cork, two symbolic materials of Gallura crafts.

Thanks to its privileged location, Tempio Pausania is the ideal base for discovering Gallura. From here, you can reach the paradisiacal beaches of the Emerald Coast and visit characteristic Gallura villages such as Aggius, Calangianus, Luras and Bortigiadas.

What to see in Tempio Pausania

Historic center: Fabrizio De André Square, Church of the Holy Cross and St. Peter's Cathedral

The white granite stones that characterize Tempio Pausania create a striking contrast with the colors of the town, providing unforgettable glimpses at every turn. The historic center is the beating heart of the town, a place full of charm where important cultural and folkloric events are held every year. Prominent among these is the Carnival of Tempio Pausania, considered one of the most spectacular in Sardinia. A landmark for citizens and visitors alike is Piazza Fabrizio De André, dedicated to the famous singer-songwriter who fell in love with this land so much that he chose it as his adopted home. The historic center is also home to two of the city's most significant churches: The Church of Santa Croce, which preserves important religious evidence, and the Cathedral of St. Peter, considered a pillar for the Sardinian Christian community. Its medieval origins were expanded with restorations completed in 1827. Its imposing appearance, with its massive granite structures, dominates the cityscape, offering a spectacle of rare beauty.

Monte Limbara

Mount Limbara, the highest peak in northern Sardinia, dominates the landscape with its spectacular slopes. From its scenic trails there are incredible views of the Valle della Luna, a wilderness area characterized by impressive rock formations and typical Mediterranean scrub. Marked routes make this area perfect for hiking and trekking, offering breathtaking views of the entire Gallura region and an immersion in unspoiled nature.

Nuraghe Majori and Nuraghe Izzana

Just a stone's throw from Tempio Pausania, nestled in the unspoiled nature of Sardinia, lies one of the most important archaeological sites in Gallura. This area boasts as many as twenty-two historic sites, including the majestic Nuraghe Majori and Nuraghe Izzana, witnesses to the Nuragic civilization. Here you can explore ancient nuraghi and Tombs of the Giants, megalithic structures that tell the story of a mysterious and fascinating people. All of this is framed by the evocative landscape of the Mediterranean maquis, which makes every visit a unique experience between history and nature. (To discover all the most beautiful archaeological sites in Sardinia, click here!)

Beaches and relaxation

Despite being a mountain resort, Tempio Pausania is within easy reach of some of the most enchanting beaches in northern Sardinia. If you dream of a vacation between mountains and sea, Tempio Pausania is the perfect starting point for exploring the wonders of Gallura and the Costa Smeralda. (To learn about the most beautiful beaches in northern Sardinia, click here)

Villages to visit nearby

If you find yourself in Tempio Pausania and want to explore its surroundings, a journey through captivating villages awaits, where history, nature, and tradition blend perfectly. The first stop is Aggius, the oldest village in northern Sardinia. Built entirely in granite, it tells centuries of history through its cobblestone streets and imposing buildings. You can visit the Museum of Brigandage, which delves into three centuries of stories about Gallura's outlaws, and the MEOC, Sardinia's largest ethnological museum. If you prefer nature, the Degna Park offers peace with an artificial lake inhabited by red fish, turtles, and waterfowl. Nearby, Calangianus welcomes you with the scent of cork, a symbol of the area, and its Cork Museum, where you can discover the ancient craft of cork processing. In San Leonardo Park, surrounded by majestic cork trees, you’ll find the Sanctuary of San Sebastiano Martire and the Fonte Sigara, a perfect spot for a refreshing break. If you're into archaeology, Luras, perched on a granite peak, is famous for its dolmens, ancient megalithic tombs from prehistory. Nearby, Lake Liscia offers boat excursions surrounded by postcard-worthy landscapes. Luras is also known for its vineyards and wineries, where you can taste the renowned Vermentino di Gallura, perhaps paired with a platter of local cured meats and cheeses. Lastly, there’s Bortigiadas, a small gem nestled between the hills at 450 meters above sea level, with just 800 inhabitants. Here you can visit the Mineralogical Museum and Punta Saliz, a panoramic point offering breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys. Again, Vermentino di Gallura takes center stage, produced with passion and tradition, perfect to enjoy in good company. (To explore all the villages of Gallura, click here)

The Carnival of Tempio Pausania

Its history goes back a long way, probably from before Sardinia became a Roman province (c. 238 B.C.). The carnival was based on celebrations in honor of Giorgi (hence the name Giorgio, Roman king of carnival), the spirit that made the land fertile and fruitful. The heyday of these celebrations can be found between the 18th and 19th centuries, when citizens gathered to dance and binge on food together. In keeping with tradition, carnival is still celebrated between February 8 and 13. (To find out about all the best Carnival celebrations in Sardinia, click here)

Where to eat in Tempio Pausania

Al Vecchio Corso Locanda
Via Roma, 96 / Via P. Careddu, 23
ph. +39 079 630709

At Vecchio Corso you can enjoy a unique gastronomic experience, where Gallurese tradition meets innovation. The kitchen offers dishes that rediscover forgotten flavors, with carefully selected seasonal ingredients. The refined ambience and informal atmosphere create the perfect setting for any convivial occasion, making every meal a special moment. Passion for detail and hospitality enrich every experience, satisfying even the most demanding palates.

L'Agnata di de André
Località L'Agnata, San Bachisio
ph. +39 079 634125

In 1975, Fabrizio De André purchased the Agnata estate, a farmhouse surrounded by nature. Now transformed into a Boutique Hotel, it offers a refined experience of staying surrounded by the scents of the gardens and the quiet of the forest. The hotel also offers a restaurant service, ideal for enjoying typical Sardinian dishes, such as fresh pasta and traditional roast suckling pig, in a location that combines simplicity and elegance.

Il Purgatorio
Via Garibaldi Giuseppe, 9
ph. +39 079 9140810

This restaurant and wine bar, located in the heart of the historic village center, was born from the owners' passion for good wine. The cuisine, which follows Mediterranean traditions, offers dishes prepared with fresh, high-quality ingredients, enhancing the resources of the area. Here you can enjoy sea and land specialties, all in a romantic and cozy atmosphere, ideal for a unique and refined dining experience.

How to get to Tempio Pausania from Porto Cervo

Proceed in a northwesterly direction from Via Sa Conca to Piazzetta del Cervo. Turn left onto SP59 and continue for 4.3 km. At the traffic circle, take the second exit and continue on SP59 for 8.9 km. At the next traffic circle, take the second exit onto SP14, continue for 4.7 km, then turn left onto SS427 and continue for 18.8 km. At the traffic circle, take the first exit onto SP38 and continue for 5.5 km. Take SP136 and continue for 6.7 km, then turn slightly left. At the traffic circle, take the first exit and continue for 1.7 km, then turn right onto SS127 Settentrionale Sarda. At the traffic circle, take the first exit onto Strada Statale del Lago del Coghinas and continue to your destination.